Here's how to scan a receipt, start to finish: lay it flat on a dark surface in decent light, open Notes on your iPhone, tap the camera icon, choose Scan Documents, and hold the phone directly above it. The scanner finds the edges, snaps, crops, and straightens it for you. One receipt per page, tap Save, then put the scan somewhere you'll find it again — not "somewhere," a specific place.

That last step is the one everybody skips, and it's why most people's receipt scans are worth about as much as the shoebox they replaced. The rest of this page covers the fast method in detail, how to rescue faded and crumpled receipts, every way to scan compared, what a receipt must show to count for taxes or an expense report, whether you can throw the paper away, and how to make the scans findable when it counts.

The 60-second method on iPhone

You don't need an app. Your iPhone has two built-in scanners, and either one handles receipts well.

Notes (quickest for a receipt in your hand):

  1. Open Notes and start a new note.
  2. Tap the camera icon above the keyboard, then Scan Documents.
  3. Put the receipt on a flat, dark, plain surface — a table, a folder, the back of a menu. White paper on a white counter gives the scanner nothing to find.
  4. Hold the phone flat over the receipt, not tilted. The yellow box locks on and captures automatically. If it hesitates, tap the shutter yourself and drag the corners, then tap Keep Scan.
  5. Tap Save. The scan lives in the note; tap it and hit the share button to send it anywhere as a PDF.

Files (if you want a PDF in a folder without the detour through a note):

  1. Open Files, tap Browse, then the three-dot menu at the top right.
  2. Choose Scan Documents and capture exactly as above.
  3. Tap Save and pick a folder. The scan lands there as a PDF.

Two habits matter more than which scanner you use. Scan at the counter or in the car, not "later" — later is how receipts end up faded, in the wash, or in a pile. And one receipt per scan, even with six from the same trip: six receipts fanned out on a table is a photo, not a record.

If you're not on an iPhone, the same job works on any phone or laptop with our free browser scanner: photograph the receipt, adjust the corners, pick the Document filter, download a PDF. It runs entirely on your device, so the receipt never goes to a server.

Getting a clean scan of a bad receipt

Receipts are the worst documents you'll ever scan: thin, shiny, curly, and printed on paper designed to fade. A few fixes, by problem.

Faded thermal paper. Most store receipts are thermal — no ink, just heat on coated paper — and they fade within months, faster in a hot car or sunny window. Scan them the day you get them. For one that's already gone gray, try the scanner's Grayscale filter (tap the scan, then the filter icon), which often pulls more contrast out of faint print than the Color or Black & White modes. Raking light helps too: a lamp off to one side makes faint printing stand out more than flat overhead light does.

Crumpled or curled. Flatten it under something heavy for a minute — a book, your phone case, your hand pressing the edges while you shoot with the other. Curl is the real enemy, because a curved receipt throws shadows across the text. If it won't lie flat, press it under a clear glass or the screen of a tablet and scan through that.

Long receipts. A grocery or hardware receipt can be two feet long, and a single shot from far enough away to fit it all is too small to read. Scan it in sections, as pages of one document: capture the top, slide the receipt up a little, capture the next stretch with some overlap, and keep going. Both iPhone scanners stay open after each capture, so every section becomes a page of one scan and you tap Save once at the end. Make sure the two sections that matter most — the store name and date at the top, the total and payment line at the bottom — are sharp.

Tiny print. Get closer rather than zooming, and hold still for a second before it captures.

Glossy paper and glare. Restaurant slips and some retail receipts are shiny enough to reflect a ceiling light straight into the lens. Don't use the flash. Move so the light comes from beside you, block the reflection with your body, or tilt the receipt (not the phone) a few degrees until the glare slides off the text.

Handwritten amounts. Scan restaurant receipts after you write the tip and total, so the number you might need to prove is the one on the scan.

Every way to scan a receipt, compared

There are more ways to do this than you probably want, and they differ in the two things that matter later: whether the text is searchable, and where the scan actually ends up.

Method Best for Text searchable? Where it ends up
Notes scanner (iPhone) A receipt in your hand, right now No (picture PDF when shared; Notes can find some text in its own search) Inside a note
Files scanner (iPhone) A PDF you'll attach to an expense report No A folder you choose in Files or iCloud Drive
Plain camera photo Zero-effort capture at the counter Partly — Photos can find some printed words Your camera roll, among everything else
Scanner app Big batches, filters, exports Usually yes, to varying degrees The app's own library or a cloud folder
Our browser scanner Any phone or laptop, no install No (picture PDF) Your Downloads folder
Desktop scanner or printer A year's paper pile in one sitting Depends on the software A folder on your computer
Paperlock Receipts you'll want to ask about later Yes — it reads each receipt and files it by store, date, and amount A Face-ID-locked vault on your iPhone

Picture-only scans aren't a mistake — a clean PDF of a receipt is a perfectly good record. They just put the finding problem on you, which is the subject of the last section. If you want the PDF itself to be searchable, run it through the image-to-searchable-PDF tool, which adds a hidden text layer in your browser, nothing uploaded.

And if your receipts are already sitting in your camera roll as photos, you don't need to rescan them — finding receipts in your iPhone photos covers the Photos search tricks that dig them out.

Scanning receipts for taxes and expense reports

A scan only counts if it shows what a receipt is supposed to show. Before you recycle the paper, check that the scan clearly includes:

  • The date of the purchase.
  • The vendor — the store or business name, legibly.
  • The amount, and ideally how it was paid.
  • What was bought — the line items, not just a total. A receipt that says "$212.40, thank you for shopping" proves you spent money, not what on.

In the US, generally, the IRS expects records that support the income and expenses on your return, and its own guidance on what kind of records to keep lists receipts, invoices, and bank and credit card statements as the usual supporting documents. For business meals and travel, it also matters why — who you met and what it was for — which no receipt will print for you. Jot it on the receipt before you scan it, or add it as a note next to the scan. Other countries have their own rules; check your tax authority's guidance on electronic records rather than assuming.

For expense reports, the rules are stricter in form: one receipt per expense, an itemized receipt rather than a card slip, and a file the system can attach. The Files scanner is the right tool there — a PDF in a folder, no detour.

Two habits keep this from becoming a March project:

Batch weekly, not yearly. Receipts from a single week are easy to identify; receipts from a single year are archaeology. Ten minutes every Friday, or every time you empty your wallet, keeps the pile at zero. If you're self-employed, a freelancer's receipt and tax routine is worth setting up once.

Name them so a stranger could sort them. If you're filing scans in folders yourself, use the same pattern every time: 2026-05-14 Home Depot 212.40.pdf. Date first so they sort by time, vendor so you can scan a list by eye, amount so you can match a bank statement without opening anything. A month of Scan 14.pdf files is the digital shoebox.

Receipts for warranties and returns

Taxes get the attention, but most receipts you'll ever actually need are for the other two reasons: you want to return something, or something broke.

For a return, the store wants proof of when and where you bought it and what you paid. A clear scan on your phone works at most major retailers, and many can also look up the purchase from your card. Scan it while the box is still open and you're still sure you're keeping it.

For a warranty claim, the receipt is usually the proof of purchase date that the whole claim hangs on, and the claim might come two years from now. Scan the receipt and the serial number sticker on the product together, as pages of the same document, while the packaging is still in the room. The Federal Trade Commission's consumer guidance on warranties is a useful read on what a written warranty promises and what to keep. There's a fuller routine in how to keep track of warranties, and a checklist for the moment itself in warranties and returns on big purchases.

Do you still need the paper?

For most receipts, no — a legible, complete scan does the job, and the paper can go in the recycling the same day. Thermal paper would have faded to blank before you needed it anyway.

In the US, generally, the IRS accepts electronic records as long as they are accurate, legible, and can be produced on request; its guidance on how long to keep records is about the retention period, not the medium, and the usual rule of thumb is at least three years after you file, longer in some situations. Check that page (or ask a tax professional) for your own case, and check your own tax authority if you're outside the US.

Keep the paper in a few cases:

  • Big-ticket items, until the return window and the warranty have both run out. Some stores and manufacturers still want the original, and a $1,400 appliance isn't the place to test a policy.
  • Anything a professional told you to keep — an accountant, a lawyer, an insurer.
  • Receipts tied to a dispute that's still open: a contractor, a landlord, a chargeback.

One envelope for those, one a year, is all the paper filing you should ever do. The habit of when to photograph and what's worth keeping gets its own page in the best way to store receipts digitally.

The part nobody warns you about: finding it in March

Here's the honest problem with every method above. Scanning is the easy half. The hard half arrives months later, when your accountant asks what the $212.40 at the hardware store was, or the returns desk asks for proof of purchase, and you are scrolling through a folder of Scan 14.pdf — or three thousand photos — trying to recognize a receipt by its thumbnail.

A scan is "findable" when you can get to it by what you remember about the purchase, which is never the filename. You remember the store, roughly when, and roughly how much. So a findable receipt needs searchable text (so the store name is something you can type), a date that's known to the system (not just printed in the picture), and an amount you can match against a statement. Folder-and-filename systems give you this only if you name every file perfectly, forever, which nobody does past week three.

This is the job Paperlock was built for. You scan the receipt into it — the camera auto-crops and straightens, multi-page for the long ones — or import a PDF from Files, or let it find the receipts already hiding in your camera roll, with your approval. It then reads each one itself: the store, the date, the amount, what it was for. No naming, no folders, no tags. When March comes you just ask, in plain English, "how much did I spend at the hardware store in May?" and the answer comes back with the receipts attached. If it isn't in your vault, it says so rather than guessing. Any receipt exports as a PDF on the spot for an expense report, and the whole vault sits behind Face ID. Here's how it works.

Whichever way you go, the order of operations is the same: scan it today, check that the date, vendor, amount, and items are readable, and put it where you'll search for it — not where it happens to land. Start with the receipt that's in your pocket right now.